Materials

Denim fabric and garments,
supplied from India.

Rigid and stretch denim for jeans, jackets, shirts and skirts, with catalogue weight in ounces and GSM, wash choices and tests for the tech pack.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies denim fabric by the metre to garment makers, as well as denim garments from India, supplied worldwide. We source other denim qualities to your brief.

Most denim has indigo-dyed warp yarns and undyed weft yarns. The warp dominates the face; the weft dominates the reverse.

Denim fabric weight in ounces and GSM

Denim is quoted in ounces per square yard and specified in g/m², and the GSM calculator converts the two. The band is the range denim mills list in their catalogues, as a guide to the market.

14.5 oz · 492 g/m²
Our catalogue denim, 100% cotton
Fabric weight, in g/m²
Our catalogue denim, 100% cotton14.5 oz · 492 g/m²
Mill catalogue range, about 4.5 to 14 oz153 to 475 g/m²

Choose a denim weight

Send the fabric reference, weight in ounces or GSM and required metres for a fabric quotation. Specify rigid or stretch and the colour.

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Specifying denim on a tech pack

Garment and quantity
State the style, fit and quantity.
Base-quality reference
Identify the selected fabric or reference swatch.
Fibre content
List each fibre and its percentage.
Rigid or stretch
State the required stretch direction, stretch and recovery targets. Core-spun weft yarns can give denim stretch; see elastane for stretch specifications.
Weight and condition
State oz/yd² or g/m² and whether the weight is before or after washing. Use ASTM D3776 for fabric mass per unit area.[1]
Construction
Give the yarn counts and the selected quality’s warp ends and weft picks per inch. ASTM D3775 covers end and pick counts.[2]
Weave
Specify the weave and twill direction.
Usable width
Give the usable width and its tolerance.
Selvedge
State whether selvedge denim is required.
Fabric finish
Specify the fabric finish and permitted shrinkage.
Intended garment wash
Identify the finished wash reference.
Post-wash targets
Set the shade, hand and garment measurements to approve.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

Send this as a brief→

Match the cloth to the wash

Send a garment reference or tech pack and quantity, with the base denim, finished garment wash reference and post-wash targets, for a washed garment quotation. Denim washing sets out the wash options.

Get a washed garment quote→

Tests for denim fabric

CheckMethodWhat it measures
Roll inspection[3]ASTM D5430Visual inspection and grading for roll and shipment acceptance, as agreed by purchaser and seller.
Bow and skew[4]ASTM D7811Bow and skew of woven fabric over a fixed distance.
Skew after washing[5]AATCC TM179Change in fabric skew after home laundering.
Shrinkage[6]AATCC TM135Changes in fabric length and width after home laundering.
Crocking[7]AATCC TM8Colour transfer from the textile surface to another surface by rubbing.
Breaking strength[8]ASTM D5034Fabric breaking strength and elongation by grab or modified-grab procedures.

Common questions about denim

What is the difference between twill and denim?

Twill names a weave; denim is one of the fabrics made with it. Chino and gabardine also use twill; see cotton twill for those cloths.

Is denim the same as cotton?

No. Cotton is a fibre; denim is a fabric. Denim can combine cotton with polyester.

How does chambray differ from denim?

Chambray uses a plain weave; classic denim uses 3/1 twill. Compare chambray with denim to see the two constructions.

Can we buy denim fabric without ordering garments?

Yes. We sell denim fabric on its own, by the metre, to garment makers. For a fabric-only quotation, send the fabric reference, specified weight and metreage.

How long does a denim sample take?

A first denim garment sample takes 4 to 10 days from an agreed brief.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Put the denim collection together

Send garment references or tech packs, fits, quantities by style and delivery window for a collection quotation.

Discuss your requirement→