Techniques

Denim washing,
for finished garments from India.

Washed denim jeans, jackets, skirts and shorts, with finish comparisons, base-cloth choices and tests to specify on the tech pack.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies washed denim jeans, jackets, skirts and shorts from India. We develop the finish on the denim selected for the style.

Base denim from the catalogue

We supply denim fabric by the metre and source other qualities to your brief. For weight and construction choices, see denim fabric and twill.

Dark indigo denim draped over a wooden rail
100% Cotton Denim · 14.5 oz

Acid wash or stone wash denim

Stone wash

Stone washing gives denim an uneven fade and an aged look.

Two sewn denim lower-leg panels: stone wash on the left and acid wash on the right

Acid wash

Acid washing creates irregular fading with sharp blue-white contrast.

Specify the fade pattern as well as the overall shade.

A garment quote for the selected wash

Send a garment reference or tech pack, quantity, front and back wash references and the base-quality reference for a washed denim garment quote.

Get a garment quote→

Stone wash or enzyme wash

Stone wash with pumice

Stone washing uses pumice to abrade the cloth.

Two sewn denim lower-leg panels with seams and hems: stone wash on the left and enzyme wash on the right

Enzyme wash with cellulase

Enzyme washing uses cellulase to biopolish the cotton fibre surface.

Use a finish reference to set the shade and fading for either process.

Bleach, ozone and laser finishes

Bleach
Bleaching agents such as potassium permanganate and sodium hypochlorite remove colour. Give the target shade and any bleaching requirements.
Ozone
Name ozone if required and attach the finish reference.
Laser
Laser fading is a computer-controlled dry finish. Mark the effect positions and dimensions on the garment drawing.

Specifying denim washing on a tech pack

Garment and fit
Name the style and include its fit specification.
Quantities by wash and size
Give the quantities for each wash, split by size.
Base-quality reference
Identify the selected denim or attach a fabric reference.
Composition and stretch
State each fibre percentage and the required stretch.
Weight and measurement condition
Give the weight and unit, and state whether it is measured before or after garment washing. Use the GSM calculator for weight conversion.
Front and back wash references
Attach photographs or a physical wash reference for both sides.
Shade and hand
Give the shade target and a reference for the finished hand.
Effect placement
Mark each effect and its dimensions on the garment drawing.
Process requirements
Name any required wash processes or combinations.
Finished measurements
Give the post-wash measurements and tolerances.
Care protocol
State the intended care instructions and laundering conditions for testing.
Tests and agreed acceptance
Set the methods and acceptance for the washed sample in the selected base denim, including fabric tensile strength.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

Send this as a brief→

Tests for the washed sample

TestMethodWhat it measures
Tensile strength of the washed fabric[1]ISO 13934-1Maximum force and elongation at maximum force, using the fabric strip method.
Colourfastness to rubbing[2]AATCC TM8Colour transfer from the textile surface to other surfaces by rubbing.
Colourfastness to laundering[3]AATCC TM61Colourfastness in accelerated laundering tests for textiles intended for frequent laundering.
Garment dimensional change[4]AATCC TM150Length and width change of the garment after home laundering.

Common questions about denim washing

Can you develop denim garments from a wash reference?

Yes. A reference garment or photographs can be the starting point for a washed denim style, made to your fit and label. See private label for the garment programme.

What does a denim rinse wash involve?

A rinse wash uses water and detergent, followed by rinsing and softening. Specify any fading treatment separately in the wash brief.

How should I specify unwashed denim?

Write "unwashed denim" in the brief. For a rinse or another finish, name the process and attach a finish reference.

How long does a washed denim sample take?

Allow 4 to 10 days for the first washed denim sample once the brief is agreed. Bulk takes from 35 days after sample approval.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Planning several denim fits and washes?

Send a garment reference or tech pack for each style, the collection's wash references, quantities by style and delivery window for a range quote.

Discuss your requirement→