Materials

Cotton twill and drill,
fabric and garments from India.

Twill fabric and garment examples, with catalogue weights, yarn counts and test methods for a chino, cargo or overshirt brief.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies cotton twill and drill fabric, chinos, cargo trousers, shorts and overshirts from India. We source variants beyond the catalogue to your brief.

Twill is a woven fabric with a diagonal pattern formed by the weave.

Twill garments we supply

Have a style in mind? Send a reference garment and the quantity, and we quote it in twill.

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Stretch twill by weight, from our catalogue

Cotton and spandex twill as the house catalogue holds it, shown greige, before dyeing and finishing. Weights are approximate.

200 g/m²
Light stretch twill
280 g/m²
Mid-weight stretch twill
360 g/m²
Heavy stretch twill
Fabric weight, in g/m²
Light stretch twill200 g/m²
Mid-weight stretch twill280 g/m²
Heavy stretch twill360 g/m²

Enquire about twill fabric at your chosen weight

Send a construction line or fabric reference, with the finished weight and metres required, for a twill or drill fabric quote.

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Twill qualities in our catalogue

Black cotton 2/2 twill fabric with small patterned motifs
100% Cotton 2/2 Twill · 2/40ˢ×12ˢ / 135×60
Ecru cotton 3/1 twill fabric draped over a wooden rail
100% Cotton 3/1 Twill · 2/30ˢ×2/20ˢ / 116×58
Grey cotton herringbone fabric draped over a wooden rail
100% Cotton Herringbone · 2/40ˢ×20ˢ / 60×56
Dark mélange broken twill fabric draped over a wooden rail
Mélange Broken Twill · 95% Cot / 5% Vis · 2/40ˢ×20ˢ / 60×60
Lilac polyester and viscose twill fabric draped over a wooden rail
85% Poly / 15% Vis Twill · 2/32ˢ×40ˢ / 72×72

Specifying twill on a tech pack

Garment or fabric supply
State the garment type or fabric-only requirement, with the quality reference if you have one.
Fibre content
Give each fibre and its percentage, including elastane for a stretch quality.
Weave and direction
State the twill ratio and right-hand or left-hand direction. For herringbone, the twill direction changes in parallel columns.
Yarn counts and density
Write warp first, then weft, for both pairs. In the cotton 2/2 quality, 2/40s × 12s, 135 × 60 means two-ply 40s warp and single 12s weft, with 135 ends and 60 picks per inch. The yarn count converter converts between count systems.
Finished GSM and width
Give the finished weight in g/m² and usable width.
Colour and finish
State the colour reference, required hand and finish. Include garment dyeing if it is part of the style.
Stretch and recovery
Specify the stretch direction, required stretch and recovery, and allowed growth.
Quantity
Give metres for fabric, or pieces by style and colour for garments.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

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Tests for twill fabric and garments

TestMethodWhat it measures
Stretch and recovery[1]ASTM D3107Fabric stretch, growth and recovery, with calculations selected for the specification.
Fabric skew[2]AATCC TM179Change in fabric skew after home laundering.
Garment spirality[3]ISO 16322-3Spirality or torque of woven and knitted garments after domestic laundering.
Seam slippage[4]ISO 13936-2Resistance to yarn slippage at a sewn seam, using the fixed-load method.
Abrasion[5]ASTM D4966Fabric abrasion resistance on the Martindale tester.
Tensile strength[6]ISO 13934-1Maximum force and elongation at maximum force, using the strip method.

Common questions about twill

What GSM should I specify for chinos or cargo trousers?

Specify the finished weight in g/m² alongside the construction and required hand. Use a fabric reference for the garment to agree the weight.

What is drill fabric?

Drill is a diagonal-weave fabric used for shirts, suiting and uniforms. State its construction and weight on the brief.

Is twill always cotton?

No. Our catalogue also includes cotton/viscose and polyester/viscose twills. Specify the fibre blend separately from the weave.

How does twill compare with poplin and oxford?

Poplin is a plain weave; oxford is a basket weave. Plain weave tends to be stiffer, with less drape than twill.

Are denim and chino cloth types of twill?

Yes. Traditional denim is cotton twill with an indigo warp and white weft. Chino cloth uses a warp-faced twill in cotton or cotton/polyester.

Can I buy twill fabric without ordering garments?

Yes. We supply twill fabric on its own, by the metre.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Planning a twill garment range?

Send the styles, colourways and quantities for your chino, cargo or overshirt range. We reply within 24 hours.

Discuss your requirement→