Techniques

Handloom cotton fabric and garments,
from India.

Handwoven cotton for dresses, shirts, tops and jackets, with cloth references, placement choices and fabric tests for the tech pack.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies handloom cotton fabric by the metre and finished garments from India. Qualities outside the catalogue are sourced to your brief.

Handloom cloth is woven manually.

Cloth reference and garment placement

Use a cloth reference showing the surface and a complete pattern repeat. Give its usable width and construction. Mark placement at the placket and pocket on the garment drawing.

Indigo and ivory striped cloth above a folded shirt in the same fabric, with a button placket and chest pocket

Handloom fabric from your cloth reference

Send the fabric reference, finished weight and metres required for a handloom fabric enquiry.

Request a similar fabric→

Specifying handloom fabric on a tech pack

Garment or fabric only
State whether the order is for finished garments or fabric by the metre.
Style or cloth reference
Attach the reference garment, cloth or artwork.
Quantity per colourway
Give garment quantities by size, or the fabric metres required.
Fibre content
Specify each fibre and its percentage.
Usable width
Give the finished usable width and its tolerance.
Finished GSM
State the finished fabric weight in grams per square metre.
Warp and weft counts
Give each yarn count separately, with the count system.
Ends and picks, with units
State the warp ends and weft picks per inch or per centimetre.
Weave
Name the weave: plain, twill or satin. See poplin and twill for cloth constructions.
Yarn colours
Include a reference for each yarn colour.
Repeat dimensions
Give the full repeat width and height.
Garment placement
Mark the pattern position and direction on the garment drawing.
Finish
Specify the required wash or finishing treatment.
Appearance reference
Identify the swatch to match for surface and hand.
Tests or authentication
List the required test methods and authentication evidence.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

Send this as a brief→

Tests for handloom fabric

TestMethodWhat it measures
Fabric dimensional change[1]AATCC TM135Fabric length and width changes after home laundering.
Colourfastness to washing[2]ISO 105-C06Colour loss and staining in a single (S) test, approximating one commercial or domestic laundering.
Pilling[3]ISO 12945-2Resistance of the cloth to pilling, fuzzing and matting using the modified Martindale method.

Common questions about handloom weaving

Can we buy handloom fabric without ordering garments?

Yes. We supply handloom fabric on its own, by the metre.

What is the difference between handloom and powerloom?

A powerloom is worked by power, as defined in the Handlooms Act, 1985.

Is handloom the same as cotton?

No. Cotton names the fibre used in handloom cotton cloth.

What is the difference between handloom and khadi?

Handloom cloth can use mill-spun yarn. Khadi uses yarn spun by hand on a charkha.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Request a quote for a handloom garment range

Send a garment reference or tech pack for each style, with colourways and quantities by size for a range quote.

Discuss your requirement→