Techniques

Machine embroidery for clothing brands,
from India.

Machine-embroidered garments and Schiffli eyelet fabric, with finish choices, artwork specifications and tests for the tech pack.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies machine-embroidered garments and Schiffli eyelet fabric from India for clothing brands and garment makers.

Computerised machine embroidery builds a motif with stitches, using a digital embroidery design file. For work stitched by hand, see hand embroidery.

Flat or 3D puff embroidery

Flat embroidery

Satin stitches span narrow shapes, giving the motif a flat stitched surface.

Off-white three-leaf motifs on grey knit: flat satin embroidery on the left and raised puff embroidery on the right

3D puff embroidery

Satin stitching over embroidery foam gives the motif a raised profile on the garment.

Name the finish on each artwork reference.

Schiffli and eyelet fabric

In cut eyelet work, stitches secure the edges of the openings. For a lace garment, see lace.

Mint woven cotton with tonal floral embroidery and round and oval eyelet openings

Enquire about floral eyelet fabric

Send the floral eyelet fabric reference, weight in GSM and metres required. Include the repeat dimensions and colour.

Request a similar fabric→

Artwork, stitches and backing

Keep an editable design file for revisions. Set stitch density, underlay and pull compensation to suit the base fabric.

Running stitches suit outlines and connecting lines. Specify the fill stitches for larger areas on the sample.

Cut-away backing is usual on knits. For lightweight knits, specify backing retained beneath the motif for support through wear and laundering, with excess trimmed beyond the design.

Front and reverse of a sage leaf motif on ecru jersey, with bobbin stitching and trimmed backing on the reverse

Specifying embroidery on a tech pack

Reference style or motif
Name the reference garment or motif to match.
Artwork link
Paste a link to the artwork and any editable embroidery design file.
Finish
Specify flat, tonal, 3D puff or all-over eyelet work. For appliqué or chikankari, name the technique on the reference.
Finished dimensions
Give the motif width and height in millimetres.
Placement
Measure the motif position from a fixed point and mark it on the garment drawing.
Garment and base fabric
State the garment, fabric composition, construction and GSM. See single jersey, piqué or fabrics for base cloth options.
Thread colours
Give a reference for each thread colour, including any tonal match to the base cloth.
Backing requirements
State the required reverse finish and any backing reference.
Care
Specify the intended washing and ironing instructions and required tests.
Schiffli repeat and supply
Give the repeat width and height. Specify fabric by the metre, a garment panel or a finished garment.
Quantities per colourway
Give quantities by garment size, or the fabric width and metres required.
Target price, optional
Include a target price for the garment or fabric if you have one.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

Send this as a brief→

From artwork to bulk embroidery

  1. 1

    Brief

    Agree the motif and its position on the chosen garment or fabric.

  2. 2

    Digitise

    Convert the artwork into an embroidery design.

  3. 3

    Sample

    Review the stitched motif on the specified base cloth.

  4. 4

    Approve for bulk

    Seal the agreed piece as the reference for bulk embroidery.

Laundering tests for embroidered garments

TestMethodWhat it measures
Colourfastness to washing[1]ISO 105-C06Colour loss and staining in a single (S) test, approximating one domestic or commercial laundering.
Garment dimensional change[2]AATCC TM150Changes in garment length and width after home laundering.
Appearance after laundering[3]AATCC TM143Surface smoothness, seam smoothness and crease retention after repeated home laundering.

Common questions about embroidery

Can you supply embroidered T-shirts for clothing brands?

Yes. We make machine-embroidered T-shirts to your design and label, including chest, sleeve or collar placements. See private label for a garment programme.

Can we buy embroidered fabric without ordering garments?

Yes. We supply embroidered fabric on its own, by the metre.

How is machine embroidery costed in India?

We quote each design against its artwork and quantities. Stitch count and machine settings determine the estimated running time used in costing; colour changes also enter that estimate.

Are Schiffli, eyelet and broderie anglaise the same thing?

No. Broderie anglaise is a form of cutwork embroidery. Use a pattern reference to specify the cloth, with the machine method and the eyelet appearance named separately.

Should we choose embroidery or printing for a clothing design?

Choose embroidery when the design calls for stitched texture. For a printed version of the artwork, see screen printing. We can quote the design both ways.

How long does a machine-embroidered garment sample take?

Allow 4 to 10 days for the first machine-embroidered garment sample from an agreed brief.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Planning an embroidered clothing range?

For a quote for an embroidered clothing range, send a garment reference or tech pack for each style, artwork references and quantities per colourway. We reply within 24 hours.

Discuss your requirement→