Techniques

Appliqué garments
for brands, from India.

Appliqué T-shirts, sweatshirts, jackets, tops and co-ords, with construction, fabric, edge and care specifications for the tech pack.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies appliqué garments from India.

Appliqué forms a picture or pattern from smaller pieces of cloth, stitched or applied onto a larger background fabric.

Applied or reverse appliqué

Choose where the motif fabric sits.

Applied cloth

The motif is added over the garment fabric. Stitches secure the motif around its perimeter.

Two olive three-leaf motifs on ecru jersey: applied cloth on the left and cloth revealed through cut-away jersey on the right

Reverse appliqué

The motif fabric is revealed from beneath the garment surface. The layers are stitched along the outline, then only the ground inside it is cut away, leaving the motif fabric intact.

The two fabrics

These catalogue qualities are references for specifying the ground and motif fabrics.

Plain red cotton knit draped over a wooden rail
Sanforised Solid · 100% Cotton · 160 gsm
Navy cotton poplin with orange flowers and blue leaves
100% Cotton Printed Poplin · 40×40 / 92×88
Red cotton sheeting with white sailboat motifs
100% Cotton Printed Sheeting · 30×30 / 68×68

Get a quote for the fabric combination on a garment

Send a garment reference or tech pack and quantity, with the ground and motif fabric references, colours, placement, attachment and edge finish.

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Specifying appliqué on a tech pack

Artwork or reference link
Send the artwork or a link to the motif reference.
Garment and quantities
Name the garment and size range. Give quantities per colourway.
Construction
Specify applied or reverse appliqué.
Ground fabric
Give the garment fabric reference, fibre content and weight.
Motif or underlayer fabrics and colours
Give the reference, fibre content, weight and colour for each fabric. For applied cloth, choose a light- to medium-weight tight weave, with a smooth surface unless texture is part of the design.
Finished dimensions
Give the motif width and height in centimetres.
Placement
Measure the position from a fixed garment point, such as the high point shoulder or centre front.
Attachment
Specify hand or machine stitching, or fused-and-stitched attachment. With fusible web, the cut shape is fused into position, then stitched around its edge.
Edge reference
Send a close-up of the finish. For machine appliqué, finish the raw cut edge with zigzag or satin stitching.
Intended washing and drying
State the care method and the checks to approve on the sample.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

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Tests for appliqué garments

For dry-cleaned styles, specify AATCC TM86 to assess applied-design durability under repeated dry-cleaning.[1]

TestMethodWhat it shows
Washing and drying procedure[2]ISO 6330Washing and drying procedures together, as required for a complete test.
Colourfastness to washing[3]ISO 105-C06Colour loss and staining, with a single (S) test closely approximating one domestic or commercial laundering.
Fabric dimensional change[4]AATCC TM135Fabric size change after home laundering.
Finished garment appearance[5]AATCC TM143Surface smoothness, seam smoothness and crease retention after home laundering.

Common questions about appliqué

Can you do appliqué on T-shirts?

Yes. We make T-shirts with chest motifs, back designs or other placements marked on the garment drawing.

What is the difference between appliqué and embroidery?

Embroidery creates an image with needle and thread; appliqué uses fabric shapes. For a thread design, see garment embroidery.

What is the difference between appliqué and patchwork?

Pieced patchwork joins fabric pieces to make a larger cloth; appliqué attaches them to a background fabric.

How is appliqué approved for washing?

Approve attachment and appearance on a garment sample after its intended washing and drying. Preshrink every fabric using the same care method before making the sample.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Adding appliqué to a collection?

To enquire about an appliqué collection, send garment references or tech packs, motifs and quantities per colourway.

Discuss your requirement→