Techniques

Hand block printing for clothing brands,
from India.

Hand block-printed clothing and fabric, with direct print and dabu compared, plus motif, repeat and testing details for the tech pack.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies hand block-printed kurta tops, dresses, shirts and co-ords from India, as well as printed fabric for garment makers.

Hand block printing presses wooden blocks onto cloth by hand. The design is carved into the underside of the block.

Direct print or dabu?

Direct print

The printing block applies colour directly to the cloth to form the motif.

Floral cotton swatches: red and black flowers on cream at left, pale flowers on indigo at right

Dabu mud resist

Dabu paste covers the areas to leave undyed. The pattern is revealed when the cloth is washed after dyeing.

Compare direct print and dabu for your design

We supply dabu to your brief. Send one design with a fabric reference, weight and metres for a fabric quote in both methods.

Quote both methods→

Set the print reference

In Sanganer printing, the colour fills are placed in the gaps of the motif. Send a close-up of the print to reproduce, with a separate drawing for the border position.

Cream cotton with rows of blue and rust floral motifs and a printed border beside a sewn hem

Get a block-printed garment quote

Send a reference garment or tech pack and quantity, with motif artwork, repeat dimensions, colour references and placement marked on the garment drawing. We quote it with hand block printing.

Get a garment quote→

A direct hand block-printing process

  1. 1

    Outline

    The outline block, called rekh, takes colour from a saturated pad. It is then pressed onto fabric stretched on a table.

  2. 2

    Colours

    The Sanganer method uses a separate block for each print colour.

  3. 3

    Dry

    In this direct-print method, the printed cloth is left to dry in the sun.

Specifying hand block printing

Supply required
Specify garments or printed fabric.
Artwork or reference link
Send the motif artwork or a print reference.
Garment and sizes or fabric metres
Name the garment and size range, or give the required metres and fabric width.
Base cloth and GSM
State the fibre, construction and weight. Browse the fabric catalogue for a base-cloth reference.
Print method
Choose direct print or dabu.
Motif dimensions
Give the height and width in centimetres.
Repeat dimensions
Specify the horizontal and vertical repeat, with spacing marked on the artwork.
Colour references
Provide a reference for each print colour and the ground.
Garment-panel placement
Mark each motif or border position on the garment drawing.
Print close-up
Attach a close-up for the print character to reproduce. Mark colour alignment separately.
Quantities per colourway
Give garment quantities by size, or metres for each colourway.
Care and testing requirements
State the intended care instructions and required test methods with acceptance grades.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

Send this as a brief→

Colourfastness tests for block prints

TestMethodWhat it shows
Washing[1]ISO 105-C06Colour loss and staining, with one single (S) test closely approximating one domestic or commercial laundering.
Accelerated washing[2]AATCC TM61Colourfastness under accelerated laundering for textiles intended for frequent washing.
Dry and wet rubbing[3]ISO 105-X12Colourfastness to rubbing with a dry cloth and a wet cloth.
Crocking[4]AATCC TM8The amount of colour transferred from a textile surface to another surface by rubbing.

Common questions about hand block printing

Do you make hand block-printed clothing for brands?

Yes. We make garments to your print design under your label through our private-label service.

Do you supply hand block-printed fabric by the metre?

Yes. We supply hand block-printed fabric on its own, by the metre.

What do the names Sanganeri, Bagru and Ajrakh mean?

They are registered Geographical Indications. Sanganeri Hand Block Printing and Bagru Hand Block Print have Rajasthan as their registered area; Kutch Ajrakh Print of Gujarat has Gujarat.[5][6][7]

How does block printing differ from screen printing?

Screen printing passes ink through the open areas of a stencil screen.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Developing a block-printed collection?

Send the collection brief with a reference or tech pack for each style and quantities per colourway for a collection quote.

Discuss your requirement→