Techniques

Zari embroidery on garments,
for clothing brands.

Zari work on kurtas, dresses, jackets and co-ords, with thread choices, motif specifications and colourfastness tests for the garment brief.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies zari-embroidered garments from India for clothing brands. Thread qualities and technique variations are sourced to your garment brief.

Zari embroidery uses metallic thread worked onto fabric.

Thread material and metallic colour

Traditional real zari includes gold-plated silver with a cotton or silk core. Imitation zari provides a lower-priced option.

Specify the thread quality and composition separately from its metallic colour. Include a thread reference with the garment design.

How couching holds the metallic thread

In couching, metallic thread lies along the pattern on the fabric surface. Thin silk stitches hold it in place.

Gold-coloured metallic strand curved across maroon silk and held by thin maroon stitches

Get a quote for a zari garment

Send the garment reference or tech pack, motif artwork, thread quality and placement. Include the garment fabric specification, colour reference and quantity. We quote the garment with zari embroidery.

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Specifying zari on a tech pack

Garment and fabric reference
Name the garment and base fabric. Give the composition, construction and weight in GSM.
Artwork link
Paste a link to the motif artwork or design reference.
Finished dimensions
Give the motif width and height in millimetres.
Placement
Mark the position on a garment drawing, with measurements from a fixed point.
Thread quality and composition
Name the thread type and quality reference, with its material composition.
Metallic colour
Give the metallic colour reference for each part of the design.
Coverage and stitch reference
Show the areas to embroider and the stitch effect to match.
Hand reference
Include a reference for the required feel of the embroidered garment.
Care and tests
State the intended garment care and the test methods and grades required.
Additional components
List any beads, sequins or spangles in the design, with a reference for each.
Quantities by style and size
Give the quantity for each style, size and colourway.
Target price
Include the target price for the finished garment.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

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Hand zari work on an adda frame

  1. 1

    Frame the fabric

    The fabric is fixed to a wooden frame called an adda.

  2. 2

    Prepare the stencil

    The design is traced onto paper and pricked with a needle to form a stencil.

  3. 3

    Embroider

    The work is generally stitched with an ari, a hook-tipped awl.

Colourfastness tests for zari garments

TestMethodWhat it measures
Washing[1]ISO 105-C06Colour loss and staining from domestic or commercial laundering.
Rubbing[2]ISO 105-X12Colourfastness to rubbing with dry and wet rubbing cloths.
Light[3]ISO 105-B02Colour change under artificial light representative of natural daylight (D65).
Perspiration[4]ISO 105-E04Resistance of textile colour to human perspiration.

Common questions about zari

What is the difference between zari and zardozi?

Zari names the metallic thread used in the work. Zardozi is an embroidery form using gold- or silver-wrapped threads and embellishments.

Which fabrics can take zari embroidery?

Zari work is generally done on lighter fabrics, such as chiffon, georgette, crepe and lightweight silk. See georgette for the base cloth.

Is Surat Zari Craft a registered GI?

Yes. Surat Zari Craft is a registered Geographical Indication of India, with Gujarat as its geographical area.[5]

Can I buy woven zari fabric on its own?

Yes. We supply woven zari fabric by the metre, sourced to your brief. For patterned cloth, see jacquard and handloom weaving.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Developing a zari range?

Send the styles, metallic colour references and quantities for a collection quote.

Discuss your requirement→