Techniques

Tie-dye clothing for brands,
from India.

Tie-dye garments and fabric, with pattern choices, colourway references and the specifications and tests to put on a tech pack.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies tie-dye T-shirts, hoodies, lounge sets and kidswear from India. We also supply finished tie-dyed fabric on its own, by the metre.

Tie-dye is a resist technique. Bound areas of cloth or garments resist the dye.

Spiral or crumple

Spiral

Twisting the cloth into a spiral gives curved bands around a chosen centre.

Two cotton jersey squares in slate-blue, mustard and ecru: spiral tie-dye on the left and mottled crumple tie-dye on the right

Crumple

Random gathering gives scattered colour patches for an all-over mottled look.

Name the pattern on the garment drawing.

Agree the look with several references

Use two or three reference pieces to agree the colour balance and undyed areas. Mark the motif position on a garment drawing.

Three spiral tie-dye jersey squares in slate-blue, mustard and ecru with different colour coverage and spiral positions

Quote a garment with the chosen tie-dye look

Send a reference garment or tech pack, the pattern reference, palette and quantity. We quote the garment with your chosen tie-dye look.

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Specifying tie-dye on a tech pack

Garment or fabric
Name the garment and reference style, or specify fabric by the metre.
Fibre content and GSM
Give the fibre percentages, construction and weight in grams per square metre. See cotton for base fabric choices.
Starting shade
State the shade before dyeing. White or off-white cloth takes dye colours more clearly than coloured cloth.
Pattern reference
Name spiral, crumple, stripe or another pattern and attach its reference.
Colours
List the colours with a reference for each shade.
Placement
Give measurements for any placed motif, including the spiral centre. Specify an all-over pattern where required.
Reference pieces
Attach links or photographs of the pieces used to agree the look.
Size range
List the garment sizes required.
Quantity per colourway
State the quantity for each garment size. For fabric, give the width and metres needed.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

Send this as a brief→

Binding, dyeing and opening the pattern

  1. 1

    Bind

    The garment is tied or folded to form the chosen pattern.

  2. 2

    Dye

    Dye is applied while the garment is bound.

  3. 3

    Rinse, then open

    The tied bundle is rinsed in clean water after each dyeing, before the ties are removed.

Tests for tie-dye garments

TestMethodWhat it measures
Colourfastness to washing[1]ISO 105-C06Colourfastness under domestic and commercial laundering conditions.
Accelerated laundering[2]AATCC TM61Fabric colour loss and surface changes in a 45-minute test, roughly approximating five home or hand launderings.
Colourfastness to rubbing[3][4]ISO 105-X12 or AATCC TM8Colour transfer to a white rubbing cloth under dry and wet conditions.
Fabric dimensional change[5]AATCC TM135Length and width change of fabric after home laundering.

Common questions about tie-dye

Can I buy finished tie-dyed fabric on its own?

Yes. Send the fabric reference, width, GSM and metres required for a fabric quote.

Will lighter tie-dye colours show on a black T-shirt?

No. Lighter dye colours will not show on cloth already dyed a dark shade.

Can polyester be tie-dyed with cold-water dye?

No. Cold-water dyes do not dye polyester well.

How is tie-dye different from bandhani?

Bandhani, also called bandhej, uses fine thread ties and dyeing in stages with different colours.

How is tie-dye different from batik?

In batik, wax is applied to the cloth before dyeing.

How are shibori and tie-dye related?

Arashi shibori is one form of tie-dye.

A question this does not answer? Ask us directly and we reply within 24 hours.

Planning a tie-dye range?

Send the styles, colourways and quantities for your collection. We reply within 24 hours.

Discuss your requirement→