Techniques

Bandhani and bandhej-look clothing,
supplied from India.

Kurtas, dresses, co-ords and shirts in hand-tied bandhej or a bandhej-look print, with the dots, colours and placement to put on the brief.

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies hand-tied bandhani, or bandhej, kurtas, dresses, co-ords and shirts for brands.

Bandhani is a tie and dye technique on woven cloth.

Hand-tied bandhej or a bandhej-look print?

Hand-tied

Each dot is a small area of cloth pulled up and tied before dyeing, and shows when the cloth is opened. The price follows the fabric and the number and quality of the knots.

Rust-red cotton with thread-bound points on the left and printed cream dots on the right

Printed

The same dot pattern, printed onto the cloth from artwork by screen or digital printing.

Hand-tied or printed goes on the garment brief.

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How bandhani is tied, dyed and opened

The dot layout is drawn on the cloth, and each dot is pulled up and tied. Finer dots need a smaller area of cloth pulled up.

The tied cloth is dyed, then washed, rinsed and dried. One multicolour method repeats the tying and dyeing until the darkest colour is applied.

Opening the ties reveals the dots and motifs.

One rust-red cotton cloth with thread-bound points on the left and opened white dots on the right

Specifying bandhani on a tech pack

Base cloth
Specify the fibre content and fabric weight.
Dye
State the dye system for the chosen cloth.
Dots
Show the dot size and spacing on a drawing or reference swatch.
Colours
Give a colour reference for each shade.
Placement
Mark the pattern on the garment, including any neck, sleeve or border placement.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

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Tests for a bandhani garment

TestMethodWhat it shows
Colourfastness to washing[1]ISO 105-C06The multiple (M) tests use more mechanical action and are more severe than the single (S) tests.
Accelerated laundering[2]AATCC TM61Colourfastness of textiles expected to withstand frequent laundering.
Colourfastness to rubbing[3][4]ISO 105-X12 or AATCC TM8ISO 105-X12 covers dry and wet rubbing. AATCC TM8 uses a white test cloth.

Common questions about bandhani

Are bandhani and bandhej the same?

Yes. Bandhej is another name for bandhani.

How does leheriya differ from bandhani?

Leheriya uses wrap resist to make diagonal or zigzag lines.

What decides the price of a bandhani dress?

The fabric, knot count and knot quality set the price. For a complex pattern, allow for repeated tying at different dot sizes.

Where does bandhani come from?

Three forms are registered Geographical Indications in India: Kutch Bandhani of Gujarat, Jamnagari Bandhani, which originates in Jamnagar district, and Jodhpur Bandhej Craft.[5][6][7][8]

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