> Title: Kantha Stitch Clothing & Fabric from India | Surajmal
> Source: https://surajmal.com/techniques/kantha
> Publisher: Surajmal Shobhachand

[Techniques](/techniques)

# Kantha stitch clothing for brands,  
_and fabric from India._

Kantha jackets, overshirts, tops and dresses, with layer choices, running-stitch coverage and tests to specify on the tech pack.

[Enquire→](/contact) [Send a tech pack](/contact)

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies Kantha garments and fabric sold separately by the metre from India.

Kantha is running-stitch embroidery that originated in West Bengal.

Kantha

- **Stitch**: Running stitch

- **Layers**: Several layers or a single ground

- **Ground fabrics**: Light and medium cotton or silk

- **Coverage**: Stitch length and row spacing

- **Artwork**: Motif dimensions and placement

- **Enquiry**: Garment or fabric reference, quantity

[Enquire about kantha→](/contact)

## Kantha garments we supply

 [Indigo jacket with all-over cream Kantha rows and patch pockets Jacket, all-over Kantha See jackets →](/products/jackets)

 [Olive overshirt with cream Kantha rows and two chest pockets Overshirt, Kantha rows See woven shirts →](/products/shirts)

 [Rust top with cream Kantha leaf motifs and running-stitch rows Top, Kantha leaf motifs See tops & blouses →](/products/tops-blouses)

 [Rust dress with cream Kantha running-stitch rows Kantha stitch dress See dresses →](/products/dresses)

Have a style in mind? Send a reference garment and the quantity, and we quote it with Kantha stitching.

[Request a similar style→](/contact)

## Layered or single-layer Kantha

### Layered

Running stitches join several cloth layers into a quilted construction.

Two indigo cotton panels with matching cream running-stitch rows and folded corners showing several layers on the left and one on the right 

### Single layer

One layer of white or coloured cloth forms the ground for the embroidery.

Specify the layer count separately from the stitch coverage.

## Running-stitch coverage

Running stitches pass up and down through the cloth, leaving gaps between stitches. Specify their length and row spacing against a reference, with the areas to leave unstitched marked on the artwork.

Indigo running-stitch rows beside an outlined and filled leaf on ecru cloth, with unstitched ground between them 

## Quote your Kantha motif on a garment

Send the motif artwork, a reference garment or tech pack, a stitching reference and the quantity. We quote the Kantha garment in your colour, with the coverage and finish you specify.

[Get a garment quote→](/contact)

## How a Kantha motif is stitched

1.  1
    
    ### Trace
    
    Transfer the motif to the cloth with tracing paper and carbon.
    
2.  2
    
    ### Outline
    
    Stitch the design outlines first.
    
3.  3
    
    ### Fill
    
    Fill the outlined areas with running stitches.
    

## Specifying Kantha on a tech pack

- **Layer construction**: Choose a single layer or layered cloth. Give the number of layers for layered work.

- **Ground fabric**: State the composition, construction, GSM and colour. Light and medium cotton or silk suit Kantha work. See [cotton](/materials/cotton) and [poplin](/materials/poplin) for ground cloth options.

- **Artwork and motif dimensions**: Attach a line drawing and give the finished motif width and height.

- **Stitch and row spacing**: Include a reference for stitch length, gaps and the distance between rows. Mark outline, fill and unstitched areas.

- **Thread colours**: Give a colour reference for each thread.

- **Placement**: Mark motif positions and measurements on the garment drawing, or specify all-over coverage.

- **Reverse and edge finish**: Include a reference for the reverse appearance and garment edge finish.

- **Care requirements**: State the intended care instructions and required tests.

- **Garment sizes and quantities**: Give the size range and quantities per colourway.

- **Fabric width and metres**: For fabric supplied on its own, give the required width and length in metres. See [fabrics](/products/fabrics) for cloth supply.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

[Send this as a brief→](/contact)

## Tests for Kantha garments

Test

Method

What it measures

Colourfastness to washing[\[1\]](https://committee.iso.org/standard/51276.html "Source 1: committee.iso.org: /standard/51276.html")

ISO 105-C06

Colour loss and staining after a single (S) test, an approximation of one domestic or commercial laundering.

Colourfastness to rubbing[\[2\]](https://members.aatcc.org/store/tm8/481/ "Source 2: members.aatcc.org: /store/tm8/481/")

AATCC TM8

Colour transfer to white test cloth under dry and water-wet rubbing.

Fabric dimensional change[\[3\]](https://members.aatcc.org/store/tm135/543/ "Source 3: members.aatcc.org: /store/tm135/543/")

AATCC TM135

Changes in fabric length and width after home laundering.

Fabric smoothness[\[4\]](https://members.aatcc.org/store/tm124/533/ "Source 4: members.aatcc.org: /store/tm124/533/")

AATCC TM124

Smoothness appearance of fabric after home laundering.

## Common questions about kantha

### Do you supply wholesale Kantha clothing for brands?

Yes. We make to your design and label, from garment development through to bulk. See [private label](/services/private-label) for the garment programme.

### Can we buy Kantha fabric without ordering garments?

Yes. We supply Kantha fabric on its own, by the metre, to garment makers.

### What do you need for a Kantha clothing quote?

We quote from the garment drawing, ground-fabric specification and embroidery artwork. Include the coverage reference and quantities by size.

### Is Kantha the same as sashiko or boro?

No. Sashiko is a Japanese running-stitch technique for mending and reinforcing fabric. Boro describes Japanese textiles worn and mended repeatedly. Name the technique and attach a stitching reference to the brief.

A question this does not answer? [Ask us directly](/contact) and we reply within 24 hours.

## Related

[Jackets](/products/jackets) [Woven shirts](/products/shirts) [Tops & blouses](/products/tops-blouses) [Dresses](/products/dresses) [Fabrics](/products/fabrics) [Cotton](/materials/cotton) [Poplin](/materials/poplin) [Hand embroidery](/techniques/hand-embroidery) [Embroidery](/techniques/embroidery) [Private label](/services/private-label)

## Developing a Kantha range?

Send the styles for the collection, with colourways and quantities for each. We reply within 24 hours.

[Discuss your requirement→](/contact)
