> Title: Denim Fabric & Jeans from India: Oz, GSM and Construction
> Source: https://surajmal.com/materials/denim-fabric
> Publisher: Surajmal Shobhachand

[Materials](/materials)

# Denim fabric and garments,  
_supplied from India._

Rigid and stretch denim for jeans, jackets, shirts and skirts, with catalogue weight in ounces and GSM, wash choices and tests for the tech pack.

[Enquire→](/contact) [Send a tech pack](/contact)

Surajmal Shobhachand supplies denim fabric by the metre to garment makers, as well as denim garments from India, supplied worldwide. We source other denim qualities to your brief.

Most denim has indigo-dyed warp yarns and undyed weft yarns. The warp dominates the face; the weft dominates the reverse.

Denim

- **Classic weave**: 3/1 twill

- **Weight units**: oz/yd² and g/m²

- **Stretch choice**: Rigid or stretch

- **Catalogue quality**: 100% cotton, 14.5 oz

- **First samples**: 4–10 days

[Enquire about denim→](/contact)

## Denim garments we supply

 [Raw indigo slim jeans with turned-up cuffs Slim jeans, raw indigo denim See denim →](/products/denim)

 [Dark indigo denim trucker jacket Trucker jacket, indigo denim See jackets →](/products/jackets)

 [Light-wash barrel-leg jeans Barrel-leg jeans, light-wash denim See denim →](/products/denim)

 [Mid-blue button-front denim midi skirt Button-front midi skirt, mid-blue denim See denim →](/products/denim)

 [Oversized mid-blue denim shirt jacket Oversized shirt jacket, mid-blue denim See denim →](/products/denim)

Have a style in mind? Send a reference garment and the quantity, and we quote it in denim.

[Request a similar style→](/contact)

## Denim fabric weight in ounces and GSM

Denim is quoted in ounces per square yard and specified in g/m², and the [GSM calculator](/tools/gsm-calculator) converts the two. The band is the range denim mills list in their catalogues, as a guide to the market.

14.5 oz · 492 g/m²

Our catalogue denim, 100% cotton

Fabric weight, in g/m²

Our catalogue denim, 100% cotton

14.5 oz · 492 g/m²

Mill catalogue range, about 4.5 to 14 oz

153 to 475 g/m²

## Choose a denim weight

Send the fabric reference, weight in ounces or GSM and required metres for a fabric quotation. Specify rigid or stretch and the colour.

[Request a similar fabric→](/contact)

## Specifying denim on a tech pack

- **Garment and quantity**: State the style, fit and quantity.

- **Base-quality reference**: Identify the selected fabric or reference swatch.

- **Fibre content**: List each fibre and its percentage.

- **Rigid or stretch**: State the required stretch direction, stretch and recovery targets. Core-spun weft yarns can give denim stretch; see [elastane](/materials/spandex-elastane) for stretch specifications.

- **Weight and condition**: State oz/yd² or g/m² and whether the weight is before or after washing. Use ASTM D3776 for fabric mass per unit area.[\[1\]](https://store.astm.org/d3776_d3776m-20r25.html "Source 1: store.astm.org: /d3776_d3776m-20r25.html")

- **Construction**: Give the yarn counts and the selected quality’s warp ends and weft picks per inch. ASTM D3775 covers end and pick counts.[\[2\]](https://store.astm.org/d3775-17r23.html "Source 2: store.astm.org: /d3775-17r23.html")

- **Weave**: Specify the weave and twill direction.

- **Usable width**: Give the usable width and its tolerance.

- **Selvedge**: State whether [selvedge denim](/glossary#selvedge) is required.

- **Fabric finish**: Specify the fabric finish and permitted shrinkage.

- **Intended garment wash**: Identify the finished wash reference.

- **Post-wash targets**: Set the shade, hand and garment measurements to approve.

Not sure of every line? Tell us what you are planning, and we will advise on what works best.

[Send this as a brief→](/contact)

## Match the cloth to the wash

Send a garment reference or tech pack and quantity, with the base denim, finished garment wash reference and post-wash targets, for a washed garment quotation. [Denim washing](/techniques/denim-washing) sets out the wash options.

[Get a washed garment quote→](/contact)

## Tests for denim fabric

Check

Method

What it measures

Roll inspection[\[3\]](https://store.astm.org/standards/d5430 "Source 3: store.astm.org: /standards/d5430")

ASTM D5430

Visual inspection and grading for roll and shipment acceptance, as agreed by purchaser and seller.

Bow and skew[\[4\]](https://store.astm.org/d7811-13r22.html "Source 4: store.astm.org: /d7811-13r22.html")

ASTM D7811

Bow and skew of woven fabric over a fixed distance.

Skew after washing[\[5\]](https://members.aatcc.org/store/tm179/577/ "Source 5: members.aatcc.org: /store/tm179/577/")

AATCC TM179

Change in fabric skew after home laundering.

Shrinkage[\[6\]](https://members.aatcc.org/store/tm135/543/ "Source 6: members.aatcc.org: /store/tm135/543/")

AATCC TM135

Changes in fabric length and width after home laundering.

Crocking[\[7\]](https://members.aatcc.org/store/tm8/481/ "Source 7: members.aatcc.org: /store/tm8/481/")

AATCC TM8

Colour transfer from the textile surface to another surface by rubbing.

Breaking strength[\[8\]](https://store.astm.org/d5034-21r25.html "Source 8: store.astm.org: /d5034-21r25.html")

ASTM D5034

Fabric breaking strength and elongation by grab or modified-grab procedures.

## Common questions about denim

### What is the difference between twill and denim?

Twill names a weave; denim is one of the fabrics made with it. Chino and gabardine also use twill; see [cotton twill](/materials/twill) for those cloths.

### Is denim the same as cotton?

No. [Cotton](/materials/cotton) is a fibre; denim is a fabric. Denim can combine cotton with polyester.

### How does chambray differ from denim?

Chambray uses a plain weave; classic denim uses 3/1 twill. [Compare chambray with denim](/materials/chambray) to see the two constructions.

### Can we buy denim fabric without ordering garments?

Yes. We sell denim fabric on its own, by the metre, to garment makers. For a fabric-only quotation, send the fabric reference, specified weight and metreage.

### How long does a denim sample take?

A first denim garment sample takes 4 to 10 days from an agreed brief.

A question this does not answer? [Ask us directly](/contact) and we reply within 24 hours.

## Related

[Denim](/products/denim) [Jackets](/products/jackets) [Fabrics](/products/fabrics) [Denim washing](/techniques/denim-washing) [Yarn dyeing](/techniques/yarn-dyeing) [Twill](/materials/twill) [Chambray](/materials/chambray) [Canvas](/materials/canvas) [Cotton](/materials/cotton) [Spandex (elastane)](/materials/spandex-elastane) [GSM calculator](/tools/gsm-calculator)

## Put the denim collection together

Send garment references or tech packs, fits, quantities by style and delivery window for a collection quotation.

[Discuss your requirement→](/contact)
