> Title: French Terry vs Fleece: Weights and Uses | Surajmal > Source: https://surajmal.com/blog/2026/11/french-terry-vs-fleece > Publisher: Surajmal Shobhachand [SSL Newsroom](/blog) Sourcing # French Terry vs Fleece: Differences, Weights and Which to Specify Kolkata 08 NOVEMBER 2026 By Surajmal Editorial Team11 min read Published 8 November 2026 French terry and fleece start as the same fabric. Both are sweatshirt knits with a smooth jersey face and extra yarn floated across the back. French terry leaves those back loops as they come off the machine. Fleece has them brushed after knitting, which raises the fibre into a soft pile. Everything else that separates the two, from warmth and drape to pilling and price, follows from that one finishing decision. That is why the two are so often confused on a brief. The swatch that settles it is the inside of the garment, and the specification has to describe the inside as carefully as the face. ## What is the difference between French terry and fleece? The difference is the back. [French terry](/materials/french-terry) has a looped, unbrushed back and is sometimes described as un-napped fleece. [Fleece](/materials/fleece) has the same loops raised by brushing into a fuzzy pile. Both keep a jersey face, so from the outside a French terry hoodie and a fleece hoodie in the same colour and weight can look almost identical. French terry Brushed fleece Back surface Visible loops, left as knitted Loops raised into a soft pile Hand on the inside Drier, flatter, slightly textured Soft, lofty, warm to the touch Warmth at the same weight Lower; breathes more freely Higher; the pile holds still air Drape Falls closer to the body, moves more freely Fuller and bulkier, holds more volume Pilling tendency Lower, though loops can snag Higher, because brushing frees loose fibre Season Year-round, transitional, warm climates Autumn and winter, colder markets Extra process None beyond standard finishing Brushing, sometimes followed by shearing Warmth needs one qualification. At the same fibre content, yarns and finished weight, brushed fleece usually feels warmer, because the raised pile traps air against the body. A heavy French terry will still be warmer than a light fleece. Compare the two on matched swatches before deciding on warmth alone. Neither name says anything about fibre. Both are commonly knitted in cotton and cotton-polyester blends, so the fibre is a separate line on the brief. ## How are French terry and fleece knitted and finished? Both are weft knits made on circular machines, in what the trade calls loopback or sweatshirt construction. One yarn knits a [single jersey](/materials/single-jersey) face. A second yarn is tucked into that jersey at intervals and floats across the reverse between the tucks, forming the loops. The [knit vs woven guide](/blog/2026/06/knit-vs-woven-fabric-guide) covers the loop structure that sits underneath both. Two constructions are in common use: - **Two-end (two-thread).** A face yarn and a loop yarn. Lighter and more economical, and the usual base for lighter French terry and lighter fleece. - **Three-end (three-thread).** A third yarn is added, and on brushed qualities it is this back yarn that is raised after knitting while the jersey face is kept. Three-end is the usual base for heavier sweatshirt weights and gives the back more bulk to brush. The back yarn is often coarser than the face yarn. A fine combed cotton face prints and feels clean; a heavier back yarn builds weight and, on fleece, gives the brushing wires something to raise. The [cotton yarn count guide](/blog/2026/06/cotton-yarn-count-guide) shows where those counts sit. From there the routes split. French terry is dyed, compacted and finished with its loops intact. Fleece goes through a brushing or raising machine, where wire-covered rollers pull fibre out of the back loops. Some qualities are then sheared to an even pile height, and some receive an anti-pill finish. Brushing changes the fabric's weight and width, so the figures that matter are the ones measured after it. Polar fleece is a different product. It is usually polyester, brushed on both sides and often sheared, and it is used for jackets and outer layers. When a brief says "fleece hoodie", it nearly always means brushed sweatshirt fleece with a jersey face. ## What GSM should French terry and fleece be? French terry commonly runs from about 200 to 350 GSM, and sweatshirt fleece from about 260 to 450 GSM, with heavyweight streetwear qualities going higher. Finished weight French terry use Fleece use 200 to 260 GSM Summer sweatshirts, shorts, lightweight tops, loungewear Light linings, kidswear layers (less common) 260 to 320 GSM The core sweatshirt and jogger band Light to midweight hoodies and joggers 320 to 380 GSM Heavier crews and hoodies with more structure The standard winter hoodie and sweatshirt 380 to 450 GSM and above Heavyweight, boxy streetwear cuts Heavyweight hoodies with a dense, structured hand These are trade ranges, not targets. A 300 GSM fleece will feel loftier and warmer than a 300 GSM French terry, and a 300 GSM three-end quality will feel different from a 300 GSM two-end one. The [fabric GSM guide](/blog/2026/06/fabric-gsm-weight-guide-apparel-buyers) explains why weight has to sit beside construction to mean anything. State the finished GSM with a tolerance, commonly around plus or minus 5 per cent, and measure it the same way at both ends; the [GSM calculator](/tools/gsm-calculator) does the arithmetic for a weighed sample. ## Cotton or cotton-polyester: what changes with the blend? Fibre changes shrinkage, pilling, print behaviour and hand more than the French terry or fleece label does. 100 per cent [cotton](/materials/cotton) gives the driest, most natural hand and the best base for soft water-based prints. Cotton-polyester blends add stability and resilience, and on fleece they help the pile stay lofty through washing. Blend What it does well What to watch 100% cotton Natural hand, breathability, takes reactive dye and water-based print well Higher shrinkage risk, pile flattens faster on fleece Cotton-rich blend (roughly 80/20) Cotton face and feel with more stability Dye has to match on two fibres Balanced blend (roughly 60/40 to 50/50) Lower shrinkage, lofty brushing, holds shape Pills that stay attached, dye migration under print Polyester-rich Very stable, quick drying, strong colour on polyester dyes Synthetic hand, static, poor fit for soft cotton prints Many blended qualities place the fibres by yarn system: a cotton face for hand and print, with a [polyester](/materials/polyester) or blended back yarn for loft. That arrangement should be written into the spec, because two fabrics with the same overall percentage can have very different faces. Shrinkage in cotton-rich loopback is mostly length shrinkage, as the loops relax after knitting and finishing. Compacting at the finishing stage controls it, and garment-washed styles are cut with the wash allowance built into the pattern. A common commercial limit for cotton-rich sweatshirt fabric sits around 3 to 5 per cent in length after the agreed wash, set by the buyer's own standard and test method. Pilling is the bigger fleece issue. Brushing frees fibre ends from the yarn, and free fibre is what pills. On cotton-rich fleece, pills tend to break off in wear; on polyester-rich fleece the stronger fibre holds them on the surface, which is why a blended fleece can look tired sooner. A tighter knit, a better yarn, shearing and an anti-pill finish all help, and the pilling grade belongs on the specification with its test method. French terry pills less, though its open loops can snag on velcro or jewellery. ## Which suits hoodies, joggers, sweatshirts and loungewear? Fleece suits cold-weather hoodies and sweatshirts. French terry suits joggers, loungewear, shorts and year-round sweatshirts. Most sweatshirt programmes use both, split by season and by garment. Garment Usual choice Why Winter pullover or zip hoodie Fleece, 320 GSM and above Warmth and a soft inside against the skin Year-round or transitional hoodie French terry, 280 to 340 GSM Breathes, layers well, less bulk Crew sweatshirt Either, by season Same pattern works in both with a weight check Joggers French terry, or a lighter fleece for winter Drapes better through the leg, less bulk at the knee Shorts French terry Brushed pile is too warm and bulky in a short Loungewear and co-ord sets French terry Softer fall, cooler against the skin Kidswear layers Fleece for warmth, French terry for movement Children run hot; the climate decides Heavyweight streetwear Heavy fleece or heavy French terry Structure comes from weight and three-end build Both garments need [rib](/materials/rib) at the cuffs, hem and waistband, usually 1×1 or 2×2, often with a little elastane for recovery. The rib is a different construction and takes dye differently from the body, so it is dyed and approved as its own shade against the body fabric. A body-and-rib shade mismatch is one of the most common rejects on a sweatshirt line. The full range sits under [hoodies and sweatshirts](/products/hoodies-sweatshirts). ## How do French terry and fleece take print and embroidery? Both print and embroider on the jersey face, so the decoration methods are the same. What changes is how the back behaves under heat, pressure and needle. For print, the face fibre decides the ink. A cotton-rich face takes water-based, discharge and direct-to-garment printing well; plastisol and [puff printing](/techniques/puff-printing) work on most bases and are common on hoodies. On polyester blends, the curing heat can draw disperse dye out of the polyester and into the ink, so a white print on a dark blended fleece turns pink or grey. Low-bleed inks and controlled curing temperatures prevent it, and the strike-off should be on the bulk fabric. The [printing methods comparison](/blog/2026/07/apparel-printing-methods-compared) covers each method in detail. Fleece needs one extra care at the press. High heat-press pressure can crush the brushed pile and leave a visible press mark around a transfer or print, so the platen pressure and cover sheet are set for the fabric. [Embroidery](/techniques/embroidery) suits both, and heavier weights carry dense chest and back designs without puckering. Lighter French terry needs a cut-away backing and controlled stitch density, or the fabric draws in around the design. On both fabrics the backing stays on the inside, where it can be felt, so a soft cover or a fused facing over the reverse is worth specifying on premium styles. The [embroidery and appliqué guide](/blog/2026/10/embroidery-applique-apparel-guide) covers backings and density. ## What should the spec say so bulk matches the sample? It should describe the construction, both yarn systems, the back finish and the finished figures, each with a tolerance and a test method. Most bulk-to-sample mismatches on sweatshirts trace to a line that was left as "French terry, 320 GSM" and then quoted three ways. Line on the spec What to state Construction Two-end or three-end, with a sealed swatch reference Yarns Count and type for the face yarn and the back yarn separately Fibre content Each fibre and percentage, and which yarn carries which fibre Back finish Unbrushed loops, brushed, or brushed and sheared, against the swatch Finished GSM Target and tolerance, measured after brushing and finishing Width Usable relaxed width, so the marker and yield are costed correctly Dimensional stability Length and width limits after the agreed wash, with the method Spirality and skew Limits after washing, since sweatshirt bodies can twist Pilling Required grade and method, plus any anti-pill finish Rib Rib construction, fibre, weight and shade reference for each trim Shade Body and rib colour references, and the light source for approval Lab methods commonly used for these lines include AATCC TM135 for dimensional change after home laundering, AATCC TM179 for skew and ISO 12945-2 for pilling. The [mill test report guide](/blog/2026/07/fabric-testing-mill-test-report-guide) explains how to read the results against the limits. Record all of it in the [tech pack](/blog/2026/05/garment-tech-pack-guide), so the bulk fabric is bought to the sample and not to its name. Cost follows the same lines. Yarn is the largest share: a finer, combed or organic face yarn costs more than a carded one, and a heavier fabric uses more of it. Three-end construction adds a yarn. Fleece adds a brushing pass and loses some fibre in it, and shearing and anti-pill finishes add further passes. Garment dyeing, enzyme washes and a narrow usable width that raises fabric consumption per piece all move the price. A low quote is usually missing one of these; [why garment quotes differ](/blog/2026/08/why-garment-quotes-differ) shows the pattern. ## Short FAQ **Is French terry the same as fleece?** No. Both share the same looped sweatshirt knit, but fleece has its back loops brushed into a pile and French terry does not. **Which is warmer, French terry or fleece?** Fleece, at the same fibre and weight. The brushed pile holds air against the body. A heavy French terry can still be warmer than a light fleece. **Is French terry good for summer?** Yes. Lighter French terry, around 200 to 260 GSM, breathes well and is widely used for summer sweatshirts, shorts and loungewear. **Does fleece pill more than French terry?** Yes, usually. Brushing frees fibre ends that can form pills. A tighter knit, a better yarn and an anti-pill finish reduce it, and the grade should be tested. **Can the same pattern be made in French terry and fleece?** Yes, with a fit check. Fleece is bulkier and may shrink differently, so grade and wash allowances are confirmed on a sample in each fabric. **Is French terry the same as terry towelling?** No. French terry is knitted with loops on the back only. Towelling terry is woven, with uncut pile loops usually on both sides. ## Decide the inside first The face of a sweatshirt is jersey whichever fabric is chosen. The real choice is the inside: loops that breathe and drape, or a brushed pile that warms and fills out the garment. Choose that by season and garment, then pick the weight within the band. After that, the work is specification. Name the construction, both yarns, the back finish and the finished weight after brushing, with tolerances and test methods. A French terry or fleece programme bought to those lines arrives matching its sample. One bought to the fabric's name alone usually does not. Related pages - [Hoodies & sweatshirts](/products/hoodies-sweatshirts) - [Knitwear](/products/knitwear) Share[](https://www.linkedin.com/sharing/share-offsite/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fsurajmal.com%2Fblog%2F2026%2F11%2Ffrench-terry-vs-fleece) [](https://twitter.com/intent/tweet?url=https%3A%2F%2Fsurajmal.com%2Fblog%2F2026%2F11%2Ffrench-terry-vs-fleece&text=French%20Terry%20vs%20Fleece%3A%20Differences%2C%20Weights%20and%20Which%20to%20Specify) [](https://wa.me/?text=French%20Terry%20vs%20Fleece%3A%20Differences%2C%20Weights%20and%20Which%20to%20Specify%20https%3A%2F%2Fsurajmal.com%2Fblog%2F2026%2F11%2Ffrench-terry-vs-fleece) [](mailto:?subject=French%20Terry%20vs%20Fleece%3A%20Differences%2C%20Weights%20and%20Which%20to%20Specify&body=https%3A%2F%2Fsurajmal.com%2Fblog%2F2026%2F11%2Ffrench-terry-vs-fleece) Surajmal Editorial Team The Surajmal Editorial Team writes from inside a working textile export house in Kolkata, drawing on experience manufacturing garments, fabrics, and yarns for global retail buyers since 1968. Every article is reviewed by practitioners who source, sample, and ship the products they write about. On this page - [What is the difference between French terry and fleece?](#what-is-the-difference-between-french-terry-and-fleece) - [How are French terry and fleece knitted and finished?](#how-are-french-terry-and-fleece-knitted-and-finished) - [What GSM should French terry and fleece be?](#what-gsm-should-french-terry-and-fleece-be) - [Cotton or cotton-polyester: what changes with the blend?](#cotton-or-cotton-polyester-what-changes-with-the-blend) - [Which suits hoodies, joggers, sweatshirts and loungewear?](#which-suits-hoodies-joggers-sweatshirts-and-loungewear) - [How do French terry and fleece take print and embroidery?](#how-do-french-terry-and-fleece-take-print-and-embroidery) - [What should the spec say so bulk matches the sample?](#what-should-the-spec-say-so-bulk-matches-the-sample) - [Short FAQ](#short-faq) - [Decide the inside first](#decide-the-inside-first) More from the newsroom - [Sourcing · 10 min What Is the Best Fabric for Pyjamas? A Buyer's Guide to Sleepwear Cloth](/blog/2026/11/best-fabric-for-pyjamas-sleepwear) - [Sourcing · 9 min Portugal and Asia in One Range: How a Split Programme Is Planned](/blog/2026/10/portugal-nearshore-asia-volume-split) - [Sourcing · 10 min Garment Sample Costs: What They Cover and Who Pays](/blog/2026/10/garment-sample-costs-who-pays) START A CONVERSATION ## Ready to source with _confidence?_ Send a brief and we'll reply within 24 hours, with a first sample in 4 to 10 days. [Get in Touch→](/contact)